Lion Rampant: Richard Neville, Earl of Warwick
As you may recall, I've begun working on my Wars of the Roses armies for Lion Rampant. I've gone for Yorkist and Lancastrian retinues that weigh in at 36 points each. I know, I could have settled with a lot less, but I've long wanted to game this period, and I want to do it in style!
The treads of all this began back in 2014 when Perry first released their Wars of the Roses Infantry plastic set. I had originally intended to use them with DBA. This explains the basing you can see in this next photo...
However, things moved on with the release of Daniel Mersey's Lion Rampant. This meant I had to rebase my models. Somewhere around this time, I decided to base all my models on individual 25mm circular discs. If I needed to bunch them together for a game system, I'd insert them in sabot bases. And since almost every rule set by this time way saying you could play their rules as long as both armies conformed to the same basing system, I reckoned I was on to a winner. I could now use my models individually for skirmish gaming, and use them for larger scale battles when needed.
Fast forward a few years to the present, and I'm now able to work on this project! (Incidentally, you can read about it here if you're so inclined!). And in another fit of rebasing, I'm making my Leader command stand for my Yorkist force! Oh, it's great to finally make a decision!
As you'll have guessed both by the title of this post and the banner in the photographs, I'm making my commander as Richard Neville, Earl of Warwick. And after some discussion on the Lion Rampant Facebook Group, I've decided to make this a larger base than normal. Much larger than normal. What you can see in the next photo is the Kingmaker, Musician, Warwick's banner bearer and the Standard of Edward IV, all on a lovely 3mm deep 80mm diameter MDF base from Warbases. Lovely stuff. I removed the magnetic disc from the underside of their bases but didn't want to risk the paint job by hacking away at the Renedra bases they were stuck fast to.
My base mix originally began as a rubble mix for my WWII models. I'd add it around small bricks I'd cut out of the leftover frames once I'd assembled the models. Since then, it's become my go-to way of basing my models, chiefly because it creates an uneven surface as the glue dries and shrinks. The mix itself is roughly 70% sand, 20% ballast and 10% cork chippings. When I apply this mix I like to take some of the chippings and push them into the glue before adding the mix over the top.
Then, once it has been left for a half hour or so to make sure it's properly dry, I begin dry brushing the whole thing, taking special care not to put any paint on my men. I use English Uniform for this and no, I don't mix it with black. I allow each successive layer to build up the colour. This gives natural shading. This goes over everything.
And then begins the fiddly part.
I begin dry brushing the cork and ballast with Khaki. I guarantee I'll miss a few in the process with a base this size. But that's not a problem because flocking can cover a multitude of sins! I then repeat the dry brushing with a mix of Khaki and Stone Grey and then add a final dry brushed highlight of Stone Grey.
Wih the blobs of glue in place, I then pick up some static grass with my tweezers and dab it onto the glue. I then go and get some more in my tweezers and dab this over the top. I'm sorry I don't have photos of this in action, but I simply don't have enough hands to do this. The tweezers allow me to put the flock where I want. The dabbing allows me to make sure it sticks in place, and the static generated by the dabbing stops my flock from lying flat. You'll also find this helps to make the grass have an uneven look. As you can tell from this post, I like this effect a lot!
In this next photo you can see the effect about three-quarters of the way through the process: