Anglo-Saxon Chieftain's Hut
365 Challenge Day 70 Hours 42
Today I decided to do something a little different. Rather than continue with my wattle fencing, or continue with the church (which I probably should have been doing), I decided to start on my Chieftain's Hall.
Things have been rather hechic of late. Making the Hall was essentially a return to a tried and proven format which made the process most appealing. I'm following the same construction method as that used for my houses which you can read all about here.
My Chieftain's Hall will measure 14cm by 8cm. At 28mm scale I assume a floor will be 5mm high. However, as this is meant to be a more imposing building, I'm increasing the height to 7cm. This in part allows me to raise the door 5mm above ground level and put a step between it and the ground. It's not much of a height, but it fits the accounts of steps leading into the Chieftain's Halls. The sides of the buildings put the roof apex at 11cm. I'm following the example of West Stow and putting two doors in the Hall.
As I want the building to withstand years of gaming, I'm making my buildings with interlocking joints. This means adding in a floor as well as the walls. Now I'm sure you could opt for the much simpler option of joining the pieces together using buttress joints and hold them in pace with some pins while you wait for the glue to dry. But if you do so, remember to measure the thickness of your foam core and adjust your measurements accordingly. For example, I'm using 5mm thick foamcore. If I'm going to make the sides the full 8cm, I'm going to have to measure 1cm less for the front and back to compensate for the depth. Conversely, if I'm making the front and back the full 14cm length, then I have to reduce the width of the sides by 1cm for the height of the walls, but not for the angle of the roof. As this is more complicated than reducing the width of the long sections, I wouldn't do it. In fact I rather enjoy figuring out the joints. It makes things a lot simpler. You only need to measure the sides and fronts to the widths you want. The joints themselves take care of the width of the foam core. And if you're working with a decent piece of foam core, it's easy to measure and check the one piece off an other.
Anyhow, here's what the pieces look like when they have been cut out. The interlocking joins are easy to see.
Once you have the two roof sections measured and cut out, you need to compensate for the apex. To do this, I simply measure 5mm in from one long side. I then take my steel rule and knife and I carefully cut through the top layer of card and no further. I then extend the blade of my knife and make a 45° cut using the 5mm line as a guide on one side and the edge of the card on the other side of the foam core. By gently drawing rheumatoid knife towards you it'seems not difficult to get a lovely mitred edge as you can see in the next photo.
As usual I'm sparing no expense and using cereal packet card. It'seems a different cereal to the last one, so the card is a different colour to my last build. No biggy. Won't alter the process at all.
First I measure out the first layer. Remember to compensate for the thickness of the card. And remember to locate the doors properly as a result. In my case I'must adding 2mm to the length, remembering to mark the first mm off before measuring in where the door goes. As I've added the width to the long sides of the building, I won't need to add in the extra with to the short sides.
I also measured out guide lines for the 6mm outer planks of wood which are made from 6mm wide strips of card. Once the glue has dried the first later onto the foam core, I then apply thesee strips.
With this done and dried, the excess parts can be trimmed flush. All that's left is to glue on the roof.
And there you have it. One Chieftain's Hall, ready to have the thatching applied!