Building Bavaria '45: Part Six
Welcome back to the next installment, collected from a number of sessions! If you're thinking of having a go at making some buildings on the cheap like this, iIcan heartily recommend having a go. It may be time consuming, but it's very rewarding.
Six and half, you might say. However, when you affix the slates before the roof goes onto the building, it becomes much, much easier to trim the edges. It also makes a much more robust structure. Because otherwise you run the risk of the roof sagging. That may look okay for some idyllic fairytale cottage. But its no use for the kind of building I'm making here.
My slates are marked out with a ball point pen on my card. They are 1cm deep, marked at 0.5cm intervals. You need to push in with your pen when you make these. You want to be able to run the back of your fingernail along them and hear a noise every time you cross a line.
Once that's done, I turn them over and trim off the excess. Don't be tempted to do this free hand. Your steel ruler is your friend. What you definitely don't want to do is to ruin all the hard work you've been doing.
Once done, it's time to stick the roof sections in place and hold them there for a few minutes to make sure you give them a good bond. After that you need to cut the flashing for the ridge. I measured out a 12mm strip and marked along it at 15mm intervals. I scored it on the underside. NOT THE TOP. Then the difficult bit takes place. You need to bend it along the score on the underside without letting the tension cause a tear in the upper. You need it to bend more than it will on the finished model, otherwise the tension won't allow it to stick properly. This is another reason why I use UHU glue for my projects. It forms a bond a lot quicker than PVA ever will.
Your flashing needs to be held in place until you are certain it has stuck. Then leave it for a few more minutes just to be safe. You'll then need to trim off the edges to make them flush. Then you nned to turn your attention to the gable rake.
I make this from a strip of 5mm wide card, mitred at the top. I glue them in place and when dry use a pair f clippers to cut them parallel to the ground.
The following photo shows how the main walls look with their facings glued on when viewed from the inside and outside of the building.
It was then time to begin work on the steps. This work is always best done working down from the top. I cut myself a strip of card 5mm wide and stuck it to the facing of the step. It's worth putting the top edge in first under the lip created from the top piece. You can then use the back of your knife to push it in flush with the step. It's also worth making sure that you don't press too hard. An exposed edge of foam core will easily give in under pressure. if you don't check, you could end up with some seriously wonky stairs!